Silk: History and Curiosities about a Fabric with an Ancient History

There are fabrics capable of changing the destiny of an entire nation, thanks to their magical qualities and ancestral charm. If this statement seems exaggerated to you, then you probably don’t know the stories related to silk, one of the most precious natural fibers known to human history.

It’s no wonder that it is a material synonymous with elegance, refinement, and even power, yes, you read that right. A story much longer than a thousand and one nights, which continues even today. We find silk as a protagonist, alongside other excellent fabrics such as cashmere and linen, in the offerings of 1stAmerican. The reason? Simple: it manages to provide unparalleled emotions, both to the touch and aesthetically, always proving to live up to the reputation that precedes it. In this article, we take you on a journey to discover some elements related to its history, along with some curiosities.

The Origins of Silk

The history of silk is filled with intoxicating and captivating legends, featuring the basins of the Yellow River and the Yangtze River, the natural habitat of the moths from which silk is obtained, the so-called Bombyx mori, which are fond of white mulberry leaves, abundantly present in this special territory.

The sericulture, which, according to the online dictionary definition on “La Repubblica,” is “the breeding of silkworms and the production of raw silk,” also known as silkworm farming, developed in China, according to the evidence found, about six to seven thousand years ago.

Imagine a small Neolithic village, rich in talent and inventiveness, where a special protein-based fabric was created with knowledge jealously and almost obsessively guarded. This was silk for China, where it was exclusively produced for over five thousand years by the Bombyx mori.

We have received decomposed fibers, but also needles, looms, and proto-spools, just to name a few examples. Considering that the processing of this particular fabric has remained almost unchanged in its procedures, it is a fact that makes one reflect.

The Uses of Silk in Ancient China

Silk was used in various ways by the Chinese people, as evidenced by the testimonies related to the Shang Dynasty, which ruled in the Yellow River area between 1600 and 1046 BC. Silk was the fabric of choice, much like linen for the Egyptian pharaohs, for funeral and mourning rites, being placed in tombs as a valuable good along with the most precious furnishings.

Silk was revered for millennia, so much so that it is mentioned in the Book of Rites, whose compilation is attributed to Confucius. The emperors of Ancient China were obsessed with the prestige associated with it, so much so that, according to a law from the 7th century, the yolk yellow shade could only be worn by emperors, with its production directly in the palaces.

Silk fabrics could not be worn by members of the lower classes. Particularly coveted were the silk robes depicting dragons, preferred by courtiers and gentlemen of the court, often gifted directly by the emperors.

For millennia, silk represented an important source of income, no less than linen in Mediterranean culture countries, so much so that it was used as currency. Its production was meticulously organized, just as it is today for companies that represent the main source of income for a state.

It circulated mainly within the territories of Ancient China, but also beyond, as evidenced by the Silk Road, the intricate network of international trade in Central Asia. Here, the nomadic Xiongnu populations roamed, but they had not reckoned with the magical power of silk.

A Story of Peace (and War) During the Han Dynasty

During the Han dynasty, which lasted from 206 BC to 220 AD, extending its influence to areas of Vietnam, Korea, and Central Asia, the Xiongnu represented a formidable threat, indeed, the very essence of the most brutal war. Not surprisingly, they went down in history as the “mountain barbarians.”

The Chinese, aware of their inability to compete militarily, devised a diplomatic strategy with silk as the protagonist. A friendship pact that involved, on one hand, the extension of the Great Wall, and on the other, the exchange of gifts, particularly precious artifacts made with silk, a fabric that became a status symbol for the Xiongnu tribal chiefs. In this way, power was not only maintained but even extended, all without the need for war.

Silkworms

Silk production in ancient China was a female occupation, forbidden to men. One of the very few practices in which women were involved in society and excelled, thanks to the mastery acquired in the art of embroidery and weaving.

Silk production was carried out, and today it is not much different, by caring for the silkworms, the Bombyx mori, which go through four stages in their life cycle:

• Egg.
• Larva.
• Pupa.
• Moth.

The transformation takes forty to sixty days. Silkworms feed, with unmatched voracity, on mulberry leaves, molting four times to adapt to a rapidly expanding waistline.

They are only a few centimeters long but can create a filament, known as silk thread, capable of reaching a thousand meters in length with an extremely fine diameter of thirty microns, about half the thickness of a human hair.

When they secrete this filament, they simultaneously coat it with a sort of gum that serves to compact the cocoons: sericin. The colors of the cocoons vary from cream to deep orange. In nature, silkworms transform into pupae and then into moths.

The cultivation of Bombyx mori is delicate in all four stages. It requires a significant supply of mulberry leaves, the only food that the larvae consume every three to four hours, both day and night. To better understand, according to estimates, about 220 kg of mulberry leaves are needed to produce one kilogram of silk.

How Silk is Obtained

The first step in silk production is the removal of the outer layer of the cocoons, a fuzz used, both in ancient times and today, to cover winter clothing.

The second step involves the treatment of the cocoons, to prevent the transition from pupa to moth and thus preserve the precious silky sarcophagus. In this phase, the removal of sericin also occurs.

At this point, the silk has lost about 20-30% of its weight. The filaments are attached to a reel so they can be unwound, preventing them from tangling and remaining linear and perfectly workable.

When identifying the thread ends, different skeins are woven together to obtain a thicker thread for weaving purposes. At this point, dyeing takes place. The raw skeins have been a precious material for thousands of years. A preciousness that has been able to influence even the course of history.

Silk Production Today

To produce silk, careful attention to different phases is necessary, from mulberry leaf cultivation to twisting, which makes natural fibers strong and usable. All this with a machine known as a twisting machine, which imprints a twist to the silk thread, thus increasing its tenacity without separating the various filaments obtained from the cocoon.

Once silk production was entirely done by hand (and by women, as we mentioned). Today, the process remains long, delicate, and complex, although operations and steps have decreased considerably thanks to innovative technologies.

Silk cultivation is mainly carried out in two countries that have a worldwide monopoly, not surprisingly those where the tradition has been present the longest: China and India. But let’s look at the ranking of producing countries in detail:

• China. It ranks first every year with a significantly wide margin. Production reaches 146,000 tons of silk annually.

• India. Follows China but at a great distance: over 28,000 tons of silk produced each year.

• Uzbekistan. The margin widens. Uzbekistan produces about 1,100 tons of silk annually.

• Thailand. Production reaches 692 tons of silk each year.

• Brazil. Not too far from Thailand, reaching a production of 560 tons annually.

• Vietnam. Another country where silk was produced in ancient times. Today it produces 420 tons of silk annually.

• North Korea. Silk production equals 320 tons per year.

• Turkey. The first country in Europe for silk production. Reaches 32 tons annually.

Silk Production in Italy

For many centuries, Italy was one of the largest silk producers. The culture of this precious fabric arrived in Italy in the 12th century AD, following the expansion of the Islamic world, particularly in Sicily, from where it spread throughout the country.

This is confirmed by important historical artifacts, including the “coronation mantle” of King Roger II of Altavilla, currently exhibited at the Imperial Museum in Vienna. The inscription on the hem leaves no doubt, as it reads: “Work executed in the flourishing royal workshop, with happiness and honor, commitment and perfection, power and efficiency, pleasure and good fortune, generosity and sublimity, glory and beauty, fulfillment of desires and hopes, propitious days and nights, without cessation or removal, with honor and care, vigilance and defense, prosperity and integrity, triumph and capability, in the Capital of Sicily, the year 528”.

Silk was subsequently produced at the Sforza court in Milan, Lombardy, in the sixteenth century, a practice that allowed the region to become one of the most important in the production of this precious fabric throughout Europe.

Italy maintained this primacy undisputedly until the seventeenth century, following France’s rise in the Lyon area, thanks to the arrival of artisans from Catanzaro.

Silk production in Italy experienced a steady decline between the two World Wars, until disappearing completely after World War II. Currently, it has been revived, thanks to fashion houses’ demands and the rediscovery of traditional knowledge. A story that continues for millennia and shows how a simple thread, albeit precious and refined, can unite traditions, cultures, and peoples.

Silk and Fashion

Silk is a material that, as evidenced by the stories and anecdotes we’ve told you, can move mountains and even emperors. A fabric that manages to fascinate every time while proving to be both durable and even thermoregulating, characteristics it shares with other precious natural fibers such as cashmere and linen.

Silk is suitable for garments in all seasons, from winter to summer wear, when it guarantees freshness comparable only to linen, and naturally during mid-seasons.

1stAmerican offers it in multiple garments, for both women and men. This is the case with cashmere and silk sweaters, designed to optimize the qualities of beauty and design for which both fabrics have been appreciated worldwide for millennia. 1stAmerican’s cashmere silk sweaters for him and her are perfect for living spring and even cool summer evenings with a dynamic and refined style.

Going into more detail, for women, silk can be found in 1stAmerican’s collections, together with cashmere in crew neck sweaters, turtlenecks, cardigans, and V-necks. It’s also present on its own in items such as jackets, pants, blouses and shirts, as well as in precious scarves, which reflect the precious craftsmanship practiced for millennia. Equally interesting is 1stAmerican’s production dedicated to men, where silk is always present alongside cashmere in multiple sweaters with models each more refined and elegant than the other. In a modern interpretation of the fabric that still makes visible a history with millennial roots.